Kaddie Shack’s 1968cc Street/Strip Motor

Interesting write up…

 

1968cc Turn-Key Street/Strip Motor – Dyno-tested, Track-proven

Looking for a super reliable street/strip motor for your Bug or Ghia? Compare this build to a 1914cc/1915cc but with better torque due to the larger 74mm crank, thicker cylinders than the 94’s, and custom Kaddies that have had all the machine-work and match-porting done. This motor is super fast!
This is our “Signature” build.
We took Jason Torchinski from Jalopnik for a ride in our car with a nearly identical build in it and here’s what he wrote for the publication:
“It sounded like a dragon was gargling a dozen chainsaws behind me, and the Beetle lurched forward with an impossible burst of speed. Seriously, I haven’t felt anything like that outside of the Panamera and GT-R press cars I’ve driven. It was terrifying and exhilarating.”
Read the complete article here:
http://jalopnik.com/project-beetle-rebirth-picking-an-engine-511263588
We spent three days dyno-tuning and dialing in this engine before taking it to Sacramento Speedway to race at Bugorama #72. We made it all the way to the finals and lost by 1/100th of a second. It did 13.84 seconds at 93 MPH in the 1/4 mile, which is pretty darned impressive for less than a 2 liter motor.
Here are the engine specs:
– Aluminum Case: Bored for 94’s, full-flowed, 8mm chromoly studs  – Thick-wall 92mm pistons/cylinders kit (thicker than 90.5’s in your 1776cc)  – Forged chromoly 74mm crank  – Forged chromoly H-beam rods  – Forged chromoly flywheel  – Kennedy Stage 1 Pressure plate with HD clutch disc  – All rotating parts dynamically balanced  – KSR-4000 Racing heads with competition valve job, “Gator-port” intakes, polished chambers, ported/polished exhaust ports, shortened guides, back-cut seats and valves, dual springs, etc.  – 75A chrome alternator conversion kit  – Kaddie Shack 44mm Kadron carbs with machined 34mm venturis, heim joint linkage, ported Treuhaft manifolds, old school style air cleaners, Hi-Flo kits, etc.  – AA 1-5/8″ Sidewinder exhaust  – Straight-cut gears  – Dynamically balanced cooling fan  – Pertronix Ignitor II Billet distributor, coil, and 8mm ignition wires. Distributor curved specifically for this motor.  – All new engine tins with chrome accents  – Kaddie Shack stainless steel hard-line fuel kit  – Scat 1.4:1 forged racing rockers  – Norris 336S cam  – Norris chromoly pushrods  – Full VDO sending unit package  – Laser-engraved crank pulley (balanced with rotating components)  – Scat low-profile oil sump  – Deck set at .040″, 10:1 compression ratio.
Dyno-tuned at 122HP/123 ft/lbs torque
This is a serious motor. We recommend a trans strap kit be installed when installing it in the car, as well as gauges. We have low-profile Ghia manifolds already ported to match if installing in a Ghia, but it made slightly less HP with the short manifolds. Can email those dyno sheets, as well.
The nice thing about this motor is that it has been made to drive around town like grandma’s Eldorado, but when you push the pedal to the metal THIS THING MOVES. It also does not have the headaches associated with Weber idle jet and linkage constant adjustment. It’s a matter of “Set it and forget it”.
It simply runs.
Great for a show car or street/strip weekender.
If you’re looking for a super-torquer for your bus, or a motor with a powerband more suited for your off-road car, or something with a little less “bells and whistles”, or simply a daily driver… we can build a custom-tailored engine specifically to suit your needs. We simply built this one because we like the combo for what we do, and it works well! Give us a call or drop us an email. We’re here to help.

Maybe the 06+ EJ253 is the way to go

EJ253

SOHC – 165 hp (121 kW) @ 5600/rpm, 167 ft·lbf (226 N·m) torque @ 4400 rpm. Intake volume is regulated by use of a MAF sensor, unlike the EJ251 which is regulated by a MAP sensor. I-Active valves (VVL intake side) on 06+ models which have ISO 173 hp (129 kW) @ 5600 rpm, 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) torque @ 4000 rpm. Compression ratio 10,0:1

  • Impreza 99, 05
  • Legacy, Outback USA 05+
  • Legacy 03-06 (Europe)
  • Outback 03-09 (Europe)
  • Forester 99 (SF), 05+ (SG, SH)
  • Baja 05+
  • Saab 9-2x Linear 05, 06

Vdubaro

I’ve been researching into possibly doing a motor swap to a Subaru EJ2xx variant.  My first choice would be this EJ257 2.5L turbo, but they are the more costly option.

image

Possible Engine Configuration

Specs: 76×94 (2109)

Alum. high roof case, full flowed, shuffle pinned
CB 76mm forged, cw crank
Mahle 94A pistons
CB 5.4 Unitec rods
Web 86B cam with Magnum straight cuts, straight up
CB 1.4:1 rockers, solid shafts
DRD 043 level 5 ported heads 40×35, manley ss valves, dual springs
Aircooled.net 3/8 inch super-hd alum. push rods in JayCee pushrod tubes
CB light wt. lifters
Schadek 26mm blue printed oil pump
Mallory Uni-Lite grey/grey springs, Bosch blue coil, Taylor Spiro Pro wire
dual 45 Dellortos, match ported intakes:
36 vents, 155 main jets, 70 idle jets, 180 air correction jets, 55 pump jets
1 5/8 ceramic coated merged header, single hide away muffler
BMD serpentine belt kit
Berg welded and balanced fan
CB 12.5 lb. forged flywheel
Kennedy stage 1 pressure plate
Daiken disc
3.5 qt. sump
9.3:1 comp. ratio

Engine Advise from Marc

If you’re going to build your own and feel that you’re ready to dive into a stroker, let me suggest a 76mm stroke and 5.5″ rods with “B” compression-height pistons. With a 92 or 94mm bore, that’ll yield “only” 2021 or 2110cc but will have the advantage of being a standard-width package – that eliminates some of the headaches of a stroker. Clearancing will still be needed but it won’t be drastic, and the rod ratio will be a reasonable 1.84 (stock is 1.99).
It’s true that larger stroke crankshafts don’t cost much more, but there are hidden expenses and hassles that you don’t need on your first build. If this was to be a “thumper” for a Bus I’d go with at least a 78 stroke and deal with the packaging issues but you shouldn’t go over 78/78.4 stroke with stock-length rods – and you’ll still need to either shorten the barrels for “B” pistons, or add cylinder spacers for “A”s.

With 5.6″ rods an 82 stroke has a 1.75 rod ratio which’ll still have a reasonable life expectancy and won’t need ginormous intake ports to have any good top-end…but it’ll be more than ½” wider than stock unless you use some spendy custom pistons.

Also consider the effect that displacement has on C.R. – a really big motor needs some cavernous chambers, or perhaps custom dished pistons, if you want a C.R. that’s street-friendly on pump gas without excessive piston deck height.

I know you’ll get lots of other advice, some of it conflicting, but that’s my 2¢ ….and I reserve the right to say “I told you so”.

Torque Specifications for VW type 1 – 3

Part ………….ft-lb …….size (dia x pitch)

 

Engine

Connecting rod nut -24 -m 9×1

Connecting rod capscrew -32 -m 9×1

Crankcase nut -14 -m8

Crankcase nut -25 -m 12×1.5

Cylinder head nut -8 -mm 18 m 8

Cylinder head nut -10- mm 23 m 10

Rockershaft nut -18 -m 8

Heat Exchanger at head -14- m 8

Muffler Clamp bolts -7 -m 6

Intake manifold nut -14 -m 8

Preheat-flange bolt -7 -m 6

Oil Pump nut -14 -m 8

Oil Pump nut -9 -m 6

Oil Drain plug -25- m 14×1.5

Oil Strainer nut -5 -m 6

Oil cooler nut -5 -m 6

Oil filler gland nut- 40

Flywheel Gland nut -235 -m 28×1.5

Clutch bolt -18 -m 8×1.5

Sparkplug -25 m -14×1.25

Engine to trans nut -22 -m 10

Crossmember bolt -18 -m 8

Crossmember bolt -29 -m 10

Generator pulley nut -43 -m 12×1.5

Fan nut -43 -m 12×1.5

Crankshaft pulley nut -32 -m 20×1.5

Crossmember to body -18 -m 8

Fan/Crankshaft pulley -94-108 -m 20×1.5

 

Front Axle and Steering

Front Beam to pan bolts -36

Body to beam bolts -14

Shock to beam sideplate -14-m 10

Shock to beam sideplate -25- m 12

Shock to lower torsion arm -25

Steering damper to front beam bolt -32

Steering damper to tie rod -18

Tie rod to castle nut -18

Tie rod nut -18

Clamp for tie rod bolt -11

Lock nut for torsion set screw -36

Wheel bearing clamp screw -10

Steering ball joint to knuckle -51

Steering box to front beam -22

Steering coupler to worm shaft -18

Pitman arm to shaft bolt -51

Locknut for pitman arm adj screw -18

Lock nut for worm spindle adj screw -42

Steering box housing cover bolt -18

Canceling ring to steering wheel -3.5

Steering wheel nut -36

Steering column to dash bolts -7

Column switch to attach plate -7

Column switch clamp to housing -7

Steering coupling flange to disc -11

Column to couple flange bolt -11

 

Manual Transaxle

Drive pinion round nut ball bearing -87

Drive pinion round nut roller bearing -144

Pionion retainer nut -36

Pinion nut -43

Drive shaft nut -43

Reverse lever guide bolt -14

Selector fork bolt -18

Gearshift housing nuts -11

Ring gear bolts – 43

Final drive cover nuts -22

Axle tube retainer nuts -14

Rear wheel bearing retainer nut -43

Oil drain plug -14

Oil filler plug -14

Rear axle shaft nut -217

Transaxle to frame bolt -166

 

Master cylinder

Stop screw in housing bolt -7

Residual pressure valve to housing -14

Brake light switch -14

Master cylinder to to frame bolts -18

Brake line to master cylinder -18

 

Front Brakes

Splash sheild to steering knuckle bolts -7

Wheel cylinder to backing plate -18

Caliper housing screw (disc brake) -18

Backing plate bolt -36

Caliper mounting bolts (disc brake) -29

Bleeder valve -9

Clamp nut screws -9

Hose to wheel cylinder/caliper -14

 

Rear Brakes

Wheel cylinder to backing plate- 22

Bearing housing bolts -43

Brake drum to axle bolt -253

Lug nut 14mm -94

Lug nut 12mm -72

 

Pedal assembly

Pedal bracket to frame -32

Pedal stop to frame bolts -18