I wanted to post the link to this cool FacePage video mostly so I don’t lose it. It’s a walkaround of the pan, seat tracks, suspension and brakes from CoolRydes (Mendeola) and Wilwood.
Pictures are for reference only (from original site)
…from an email dated 7/17/17.
Thanks for the email Jim, the renderings, and the information. It will allow me to understand your vision and give you the best recommendations I can.
So, if you are building this for show use, anything can be done because expectations are about fit, finish and accomplishing your vision. Love the photoshops, it looks incredible. I need to be the devil’s advocate though. 19’s on a late model ghia, that is going to be tough. You really only have 7″ total width to play with, so finding a wheel that fits exactly, before paint is key to the entire equation. Air Ride and high performance are polar opposites. High performance applications need stability, firmness, less sway and body roll. Air Ride is plush, soft, floats like a butterfly, etc. But if you are building a show car, totally bitchin’! In my opinion, you will need to go one route or the other if you have expectations of one or the other, as having both is not an option.
My opinion, 4″ Narrowed PRObuilt Beam with air ride, front and rear disc brakes in a porsche bolt pattern and a mild 1914cc and below engine. This is one route. The other route, 4″ Narrowed PRObuilt beam with adjustable shocks, big BAD Series Brakes, adjustable shocks in the rear and the big 220 horse engine. Both are cool in their distinctive looks but function completely different.
What do you think?
Pete Skiba – Founder & COO
In retrospect, 220 ponies really would be over-kill for a 95% show Ghia. Realistically, am I going to spend 100’s of hours getting the body perfect to hit the road and beat the snot out of it? I’m guessing that 1914 would produce what, 110 – 120HP? Still a drivable VW. Probably save a couple grand on the engine build as well. I’ll need that, as I’m really stuck on the 19’s and I’m certain I’ll have to get them custom made.
Here’s what they suggested…
Performer Chassis – $2500 Deposit – $24,500.00 as you see it
I first braced the doors with some 2X4’s and metal strips, not pretty but it works and was cheap. Luckily there is no pressure on them after raising the body and the heater channels look to be free of rust.
I used 4×4’s, some I had laying around from a deck/fence project that took priority over working on the car earlier in the month. I used 8′ lengths for the lower sections and 6’5″ for the width to allow wider tires when I eventually get to that point. The vertical pieces are 2′ (the OP later said he would add 4 inches to those 2 foot sections) and allowed the pan to almost completely clear the body with the front suspension attached. I removed that and put it on dolly’s a bit lower that allowed full clearance.